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Mexico City
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Day 3 Feb. 12th Sunday
 High Temp: 86. The police are different here in Mexico; they are all over the place in the tourist sections of the city and seem never to go to the neighborhoods, so much for neighborhood policing. I have seen them in several kinds of gear and especially like that they are in riot gear and seem to be regularly drilling in one of the parks. Makes me feel so safe J. We got up late and barely had time to down some coffee and juice before we had to rush out the door to the taxi, Senora ordered for us, it would take us to the tour bus that is going to Mexico City. We moved quickly through the lightly traveled streets. I see that people really don't get started until after 8 am in the morning so if you are an early bird like me you could get to where your going earlier, of course it will probably be closed. For the first time we drove on the new highway that cuts across Mexico, last night I had seen a political commercial that was bragging about it being finished. Nice road that makes going from Mexico City to Acapulco relatively easy if you dare to drive in Mexico. We were actually the first of about fifteen people to arrive and get on the bus. After all had joined us our guide for the day stood and explained the tour. Unfortunately the man spoke no English so I had no idea what he was saying. Luckily they passed out a summery of the trip in English so I got the days events.
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Driving to Mexico City we were to visit the Zocalo of Mexico City a historical and important center in North America and then drive to the Anthropology Museum for the afternoon.
Mexico City is one of the most important cultural centers of the American continent, founded in 1325 by the Aztecs. It became the metropolis of one of the worlds richest native peoples. The many centers of attractions for the visitor include over 95 museums of art, history, handicraft, science and technology, popular and universal culture, temples, theaters, parks monuments and restaurants.
We started at the Palacio National (GPS: N19 26.019 W099 07.963) with an explanation of the incredible mural by Diego Rivera depicting the history of Mexico. It was cold in the center only in the fifties and Joy and I struggled with it while we looked at the mural. For 16 years, Rivera and his assistants painted the walls of the palace, producing 1200 square feet of fantastic, vivid murals that embellish the second floor. Rivera's view of the history of the Mexican civilization is represented through this vast display.
The mural is amazing in its grandeur and scope; from the first conquistadors to the labor and communist movements in Mexico it is a site to be scene. The largest section is covering the three walls surrounding the staircases to the second level of the building and is epic. The remaining murals run around two sides of the upper level and delve more deeply into the life of the Aztecs. The explanation in Spanish was beyond me but I enjoyed walking and taking photos (no flash allowed) while everyone in the group got the history. A fascinating piece of art for sure, I think though that Joy was done about 15 minutes into the tour and was distracted and a bit cold.
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(1886 - 1957)
In art as in life, Diego Rivera was a man constantly in rebellion. At 16, he left the prestigious San Carlos Academy in Mexico City in protest against the academy's emphasis on representational art. He became an avid Marxist but outraged the Stalinist regime in the Soviet Union by welcoming Trotsky to Mexico. Rivera shocked religious believers by including the phrase "God does not exist!" in one of his murals. In 1948 a group of students burst into the Del Prado hotel, where the mural hung, to carve out "does not exist!" Nothing daunted, Rivera led a shock troop of a hundred left-wing artists and intellectuals into the hotel. Amid shouts of "Death to imperialism!," the words were carved back in.
Rivera was born in Guanajuato, capital of the similarly named state, on December 8, 1886. In 1892 his family moved to Mexico City. While at the San Carlos Academy, before his protest and departure, such paintings of his as Paisaje de Mixcoac ("Mixcoac Landscape") show the influence of José Velasco, Mexico's great landscape painter.
Rivera had his first exhibition in 1907, which resulted in a scholarship that took him to Europe. After sojourns in Madrid and Paris, he went back to Mexico in the fall of 1910, In July of the following year he again left for Paris. There, between 1912 and 1917, he was affiliated with the cubist school, then considered the ultimate in avant-garde artistic expression.
Returning to Mexico in 1921, Rivera painted his first important mural in 1922. Titled Primera Energía, its theme is the primal energy that animates both Man and Woman, with all its powers and potentialities. Rivera also won high praise for frescoes, painted in 1927, for the Auditorium of the National Agricultural School at Chapingo. Some critics consider these to be his finest work. Also in this building is the mural "Biological Evolution and Social Evolution," a philosophically symbolic synthesis in which the female nude figures are considered among the most impressive in modern art.
In Mexico' s Palacio Nacional ("Presidential Palace") are frescoes that express Rivera's interpretation of Mexican history. The ones on the staircase cover the period up to 1935 and in the corridors from 1943 onward. These highlight the weltanschuaung of an artist who is also a committed ideologue. Rivera harks back to Mexico's pre-Columbian past and particularly impressive -- especially for its striking colors -- is his depiction of the marketplace in the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlán.
Rivera the political man is of almost as much interest to us as Rivera the artist. The painter was a lifelong militant atheist and revolutionary Marxist. But events in the Soviet Union would create for him an intense ideological dilemma. When Stalin gained the upper hand in the struggle against Trotsky, he banished him from Soviet territory in February 1929. At the time, Rivera sided with Trotsky. Turkey granted Trotsky asylum and he remained there until 1933, when he moved to France. In 1935 Trotsky left France for Norway but Soviet pressure got him expelled from that country at the end of 1936. At Rivera's behest, President Lázaro Cárdenas agreed to give Trotsky asylum. On January 9, 1937, his ship from Norway was greeted by the commander of Cárdenas's presidential train. Trotsky and his entourage were greeted by Rivera at a small station near Mexico City and then transported to the Blue House, Rivera's magnificent residence in Coyoacán. This would be Trotsky's home for the next two years.
In February 1938 Rivera and another Trotsky admirer, the French Surrealist poet André Breton, signed a manifesto in Partisan Review, a left-wing anti-Stalinist New York literary magazine, calling for creation of an International Federation of Revolutionary Writers and Artists. Purpose of the federation was to resist Stalinist cultural domination in the arts.
Rivera's contrarian nature caused a break between him and Trotsky in 1940. This was a presidential election year and Cárdenas's choice to succeed him was Manuel Avila Camacho, a former general who was more conservative than Cárdenas and a religious believer to boot. Though Cárdenas had welcomed Trotsky to Mexico, there was a strong Stalinist element among his followers. This faction included labor leader Vicente Lombardo Toledano and another celebrated Mexican painter, David Alfaro Siqueiros.
The Stalinist ring around Cárdenas caused Rivera, much to Trotsky's dismay, to attack Cárdenas as "an accomplice of the Stalinists." Rivera also decided to support Avila Camacho's opponent in the coming election, a general named Juan Andrew Almazán. Almazán was even more right-wing than his opponent, promising to bring the unions into line and enjoying the backing of Mexico's neo-Nazi movement. Trotsky deplored Rivera's support for Almazán as well as his denunciation of Cárdenas. Realizing how precarious was his position in Mexico, had no desire to needlessly antagonize the existing president. The break caused Trotsky to move out of Rivera's house. At the same time, he was fair-minded enough to describe Rivera as "a genius whose political blunderings could cast no shadow either on his art or on his personal integrity."
The most influential woman in Rivera's life was Frida Kahlo, his lover and later his wife. A talented creative spirit in her own right, part-Jewish with a crippled leg and a stunningly beautiful face, Kahlo accompanied Rivera when he led the raiding party into the Del Prado to reaffirm the nonexistence of God. This merry band, which included such figures as José Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Gerardo Murillo ("Dr. Atl") and Juan O'Gorman, was a virtual Who's Who of Mexico's intellectual leftist elite.
Unpredictable as ever, Rivera recanted his Trotskyism after Trotsky's assassination and, in Isaac Deutscher's words, "return(ed) contritely to the Stalinst fold." He had been to the Soviet Union in 1927-28. He returned triumphantly in the mid-1950s and then organized an exhibition with a pro-Soviet theme.
Diego Rivera died in Mexico City two weeks before his seventy-second birthday. Date of his death is November 24, 1957.
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 We moved out of the Palacio National to the Templo Mayor at the corner of the square (GPS: N19 26.077 W099 07.923), It was not something we went in, a major Aztec temple and archeological site. Instead we got an explanation I did not understand in Spanish and moved on to the Metropolitan Cathedral. This Cathedral was absolutely amazing in it ornate beauty. It is a functioning church so after a lengthy explanation and warning to respect the parishioners we were left to wander around it. The day was growing warmer as the time past, Elisa bought a poncho from a street vender and looked cute in it.
The cathedral and its vestry represent a synthesis of art forms in New Spain. Penetrating its imposing sun-bathed baroque and neoclassical facade, the visitor enters the ethereal half-light of this hallowed shrine, with its five separate naves, its side chapels, and its sacred religious icons. The religious ceremonies are performed with the full dignity of the Catholic faith and, with a little luck, it may be possible to hear the strains of one of the cathedral's monumental organs. The City's soft clay subsoil, subject to continuous movement over the years, has propitiated the gradual sinking of many building such as the cathedral, and sophisticated restoration works, partially visible, have prevented its collapse.
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Exterior harmony
This monumental structure which today dominates Mexico's main square -the Zocalo- is not the same as that which initially replaced the Templo Mayor in 1572 the Archbishop Pedro Moya de Contreras laid the first stone which, after 42 symbolic years, was inaugurated by the Viceroy Duke of Alburquerque and was later re-dedicated in 1667 by the Viceroy Mancera.
The cathedral had the privilege of introducing new architectural styles that subsequently flourished throughout New Spain. Classic evolves into neoclassic and envelops the baroque play of style without detracting from it in any way. Much of this is owed to Manuel Tolsa who added the final touches to the project in 1813 by adding the balustrade and by enlarging the central cupola.
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The exquisite interior
Crossing the threshold framed by the magnificent main doors carved in 1659 leads the visitor into a more subtle world, geared towards uplifting the soul with a spirituality that permeates the senses: magnificent fluted columns which soar upward and return to earth in a display of infinite motion akin to the sounds produced by the monumental organs, exquisitely carved the wooden benches crowned by a lectern, golden galleries of the organs and the resplendent relief backdrop of the Altar of Forgiveness.
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After exiting the cathedral the adjoining vestry can be visited, the sober interior of which provides a sharp contrast to its capricious exterior facade. There is a difference of almost five feet between the levels of the opposing walls of the cathedral's huge structure, which stoically resists the vagaries of the urban landscape caused by the hustle and bustle of City life.
A Mass was about to start so we did not want to take pictures or anything; instead we worked our way around the outside of the interior looking at the different saint shrines along the walls. All were beautiful and ornate; I did snap a couple of no flash shots at a couple of these. There were many people flowing in for the mass and the lines to the confessional were very long. On of the priests I swear seemed asleep while listening to confessions, it could just have been that he was listening intently. We all made it back to the bus on time, one guy Ryan came close to missing it and now we began a long slow trek across the city to the Anthropology Museum
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I was much more impressed with this part of the city, very metropolitan with wide streets and bustling businesses. We passed a couple of Dunkin Donut shops and I was so wishing we could stop to get a nice not instant coffee. It took a very long time to get to the museum. We arranged to meet at the Statue of Ghandi (GPS: N19 25.660 W099 11.057) at closing for the ride back to Cuernavaca then went into the very nice and large museum. We went for lunch in the restaurant in the museum and overpaid for a buffet $119 all you can eat. I was good having Steak, pork, rice and chicken, potatoes and many other delicious foods.
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We all met back and started the guided tour. It was 2:30 PM by this time so our guide seemed to want to stare us to the important parts of the museum. Since I could not understand the descriptions anyway I moved through the museum and took picture, it is so cool to be able to take pictures in a museum. We covered four rooms, one on our own and had a very good time. I personally liked the little character statues and images of skeletons in the rooms. We went to four rooms, Xochicalco, Mexica, Teotihuacan and Maya, each was very interesting and a good deal of English language descriptions made it a good place to visit.
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Ballgame marker - This ballgame marker was made in four sections. It could be dismantled and taken to any improvised courtand reassembled. A likeness of this marker was painted in one of the murals of Tepantitla an apartment compound in the great city. - Teotihuacan
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Huehueteoltl - A wrinkled and stooped over Old God, lord of fire - both father and mother at the same time- dwelled in the Omeyocan, the highest level of the celestial realms. - Teotihuacan
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Figurine- This piece probably represents a warrior in full regalia with large rectangular shields topped with feathers in each hand. Some authors suggest he is a priest dispensing riches as seen in mural paintings.- Teotihuacan
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 Above_ Coatlicue, She of the Serpent Skirt - An impressive sculpture, represented as the center of the cosmos that connects the terrestrial regions with the celestial or divine realms. The image of life and death, of past and the future. -Mexica
<<<-------Ocelot Cuauhxicalli (jaguar offering vessel)
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Atlantean Figure - The atlantean figure of Tula represent warriors adorned with symbols of Quetzalcoatl's manifestation as Venus. As architectural supports, they serve to hold up the roof atop the temple at Pyramid B. - Toltecs
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AZTEC CALENDAR STONE; MEXICO CITY, Mexico1982
INHERITED FROM MESOAMERICAN CULTURES CENTURIES OLDER; THE CALENDAR
WAS 3 IN ONE (SOLAR, LUNAR & SACRED); 12 FEET IN DIAMETER
The calendar stone represents the legend of the suns, according to which there were four suns or eras, each ruled by different Gods who destroyed themselves successively until the fifth sun arrived - the sun of movement - at the beginning of the era of Mexico-Tenochtitlan's splendor and glory.
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Cotepantli relief - There was a coatepantli, or serpent wall, around the main pyramid at Tula as the principal decorative element on a series of stone tablets such as this one showing a partially fleshless individual wrestling with a serpent. - Toltecs
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This statue of Xochipilli (AKA Prince of Flowers) was found at Tlalmanalco on Popocatépetl volcano and is dated approximately 1450 AD The god's body has carved flowers including coaxihuitl (Turbina corymbosa), source of ololiuhqui seeds. It is possible to observe rosettes of the sectioned caps of the mushrooms called xochinanacatl or "flower mushrooms" in Nahuatl, probably Psilocybe aztecorum. The face of Xochipilli is contorted as if seeing visions in ecstasy, and the head is tilted as if hearing voices (R.G. Wasson).
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Above is COATLICUE - This is the goddess of the earth, the mother of the sun, the moon, and the stars, half life and half death. Her attribute is her skirt of rattlesnakes symbolizing the earth itself. - Mexica
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Ehecatl - God of the wind, was one of the most important Mexica deities. His breath was equivalent to life itself, the breath of life.--------------------------------------------------->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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Ehecatl Supporting Figures - These images of the wind god, wearing a buccal mask with a bird's beak that identifies this deity, hold the base of a pedestal with there hands. - Mexica
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OLMEC STONE HEAD - The 17 Colossal heads found to date are believed to be ruler portraits; no two are alike, although they share the characteristics of monumental Olmec sculpture: Broad nose, thick lips, pleasing proportions and geometric, volumetric shapes.
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Getting back to Cuernavaca took about two hours, we were left at the Old Cathedral and had to take a taxi back to the house. Taxis are a funny thing in that town, there are no meters in the cabs instead you tell the driver where you want to go and then negotiate a price. In general from in town to where we were staying was about $25 pesos, but at night and without the experience yet we paid $40 for our ride back to the house. Best thing to do is if you think the taxi price is too high say no thanks because there is fierce competition among the drivers and you will find someone who will do it for less. There is no tipping of the taxi drivers so don't do it, the negotiated price is the total cost. It was a beautiful night in the city with warm temps and a full moon, nobody was home when we arrived at the house and we had to wait outside for about fifteen for the _____ family to arrive from church. We were tired but on
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Sunday night there were tons of family over for visiting. This was so overwhelming, meeting so many people and listening to so much conversation in Spanish. Fernando asked me if we wanted to do seranata for Joy at midnight, this is a tradition on a birthday which midnight would be the start of Joy's where everyone wakes up the birthday owner and sing happy birthday. I would have had to stay up for another hour and it would have been too confusing for Joy so I said we should skip doing that but it is a neat tradition.
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