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Centro Cuernavaca
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 Day 7 Feb. 16 th Thursday
High Temp: 95. Up early after a night of tossing and turning in the heat. It was already warm so it promised to be a very hot day. School was good with half a day of classes and then a trip to the Cathedral in Cuernavaca called the Church of the Assumption. The cathedral, located on the corner of Hidalgo and Morelos streets, began life as a Franciscan friar, founded by Hernán Cortés in 1529. Work started on the fortress-like complex in 1533. The side portal of the church has a fine colonial-Plateresque façade with, above the gable, the symbols of a crown, cross, skull and bones framed by an alfiz. During restoration of the cathedral interior in the 1950s, some early murals were uncovered depicting the departure of 24 Mexican Franciscan friars, embarking at the start of their missionary journey to Japan, and their subsequent martyrdom on the cross in 1597. Among them was Mexico's only saint, San Felipe de Jesús.
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The Chapel of the Third Order, at the rear of the monastery building, has a very typical Mexican Baroque façade, embellished with a small figure representing Hernán Cortés. Like the chapel's lovely carved wooden altar (1735), the façade shows strong Indian influence.
Adjoining the cathedral stands the spacious Open Chapel, it's vaulting supported on three arches. Two buttresses reinforce the central columns. Remains of murals showing the lineage of the Franciscan order can be seen in the cloister.Every Sunday a folk mass is celebrated in the cathedral to the accompaniment of mariachi music. Mariachi players also perform there on Sunday and Wednesday evenings. It is an interesting example of the melding of older religions into the new Catholic one brought by the Spanish Conquistadors.
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Its domed outdoor chapel allowed the natives in Mexico to attend Catholic services while not entering a building, this was important as all there older religious ceremonies were outside and many would not enter a church to pray.
We spent a couple of hours wandering around the churches and hearing explanations translated to English by the more advance students. I looked for a prayer card for my grandmother here and although there is not a particular saint in Mexico for good health I found a card for one that is commonly prayed to for this purpose. There are several churches in the complex so there was a lot to look at. Joy the poor girl was a bit bored but in all it was a very nice time.
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The meal of the day was again excellent Chicken taquitos and veggie soup. A bit of sour cream and salsa on the taquitos made them absolutely delicious. Talked to Daniel about camping and experiences with animals while camping. We decided that night that we would go to a local Internet café (GPS: N18 54.366 W099 12.819). I sent him my websites so he could see some winter camping. He says he would love to try it but we would have to see on that. It is interesting how absolutely local the economy is in Cuernavaca. There are so many little stores, ice cream stands, Internet cafes, laundries, and tire fix-it places. All are owner worked so they can make a living. Every weekday night at 9pm the family or at least most of them watch a soap opera called “Amor en Custodia” It is pretty basic soap and funny that I could really figure out what is going on in the show even with my limited Spanish. Centers around a family and their employees with a very pretty woman Paola Nunez as Barbara and two guys who I think are her bodyguards. She tries to play one against the other and is a manipulative young woman.
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Day 8 Feb 17th Friday
High Temp: 97. The last day of school but there was no letting up in the speed or amount of work we did there. The day at school though started with a ceremony to say goodbye to us finishing and to introduce the names of those starting on Monday. It was a bit nerve racking trying to come up with something to say in Spanish or at least what passes for Spanish for me. We worked hard in class and said our goodbyes. Joy, Elisa and I walked from the school to the in town, about a ten-minute walk. We searched for and found the Restaurant Sanborn's near the center. We wanted to give Joy an American meal. She had not been like the food at all and was not eating much. She ordered an Angel hair pasta dish with meat sauce but when it came she was surprised to find out that meat sauce at Sanborn's was brown gravy. Joy was so disappointed that we let her order a burger and fries instead. It took awhile but we eventually found the bus back to the school where Elisa and Joy had a Salsa lesson while I went to an Internet café and checked and cleared the email. Joy told me that some guys catcalled her and Elisa shouting “Guapa Chica!” when they past. It made joy nervous not feeling so safe without me there.
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In Mexico it is common for guys to make comments to women on the streets and Joy probably had about a half dozen of these during our vacation. It is more common when a man is not with the ladies. They also stare quite a bit even when I was there and I had to stare down quite a few men while walking with Joy and Elisa. When we heading back for the bus after the Salsa lesson the new park being constructed nearby were testing a new water fountain, that had water jets that shot designs in sync with music and colored lights. It was very cool and a pretty good crowd gathered to watch. It was a quiet evening with a daughter in-law coming by with her 16yr old daughter Pamela. Joy misunderstood her age and thought she was older so missed an opportunity to talk to another teenager.
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 Inside the main Cathedral, notice the unique cross, the same liberal Bishop who started the Mariachi Mass change the cross wanting to depict Jesus in a more loving light instead of the crucified version seen in other places.
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The Cathedral from the outside, and on the right there were several of these nook areas where people prayed to their saints and left little note, candles and other offerings.
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The Cathedral was just a lovely place with multi level courtyard, small religious card shop and several smaller saint chapels in different areas of the building. This painting was outside a very nice chapel but we did not take pictures inside because there were some people inside praying.
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Day 9 Feb. 18th Saturday
High Temp: 90. We planned to stay local this being our first day on our own. The week of riding the busses had made us a lot more comfortable getting around the city. We slept in and really didn't get going until 10 am or so. We walked from the bus in town to the Jardin Borda a beautiful place with gardens, fountains and art museum. One of the most characteristic sites of the city is Jardin Borda, the name it has been known as since its beginnings. Built in the 18th Century by Don manual de la Borda y Verdugo, son of businessman and miner of Taxco, Don Jose de la Borda. Jose de la Borda was born January 2nd 1699 in Jaca, Arogon, Spain. His father Pierre de la Borda was an army officer of Luis XIV and his mother, Magdalena Sanchez, of Spanish origin. He came to Mexico when he was 17 on July 13th 1716 and joined his older brother, Francisco, who was established in Taxco since 1708. In this city Jose worked with his brother in the mines and built the Church Santa Prisca.
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The garden that today bears their name was built by Jose manuel Arrieta and was bought by Don Jose around 1763. His son Don Manuel de la Borda, at first planned it as a resort place for his father, but at his death in 1778, inherited and transformed the garden, that has had from the beginnings hundreds of different fruit trees and decorative plants, because Dan Manuel, besides being a priest, was a scholar of horticulture and botanics.
Through the years this place has been used in many different ways as: Shelter home, botanical garden, inn, stage coach station, public offices, summer residence of the Emperor Maximilian, hotel, restaurant and night club.
We walked around this lovely place and took pictures, chatted with other Americans who were there and in general had a relaxing time. There was a nice modernist art show but I did not write down the artists name so I can't fill you in on that. Unlike the other museums we visited in Mexico in the gallery at Jardin Borda you could not take photos.
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We had a lunch date at Fred Hickman's house right near by in the center of town (GPS: N18 55.237 W099 14.036). He is a college friend of Peter Thomson Sr. and we had a very nice lunch at his beautiful house(rented). The tour of the house was a high point of the day for Joy who just loves fancy places. Lunch with Fred His wife, daughter and her two sons was very nice, Chicken toquitos, and a delicious chicken soup. We sat out at the lunch nook in the backyard with a view of the Cathedral. After leaving the Hickman's we walked down to try to find the Macador (market) but finding the underpass was impossible. We did though get to know the shopping area, packed with people and hawkers this was quite the tight experience for someone of my size. We went through an indoor section that was stall after stall packed with CDs, dvds and other goods from floor to roof (low). I ducked under and squeezed through throngs of people, in a disorienting maze trying to find the underpass to the market, Amazing. Since we never found it we decided to go to the Palacio de Cortez another very nice museum with a Diego Rivera on a smaller scale from the National Palace but still giving a history of Mexico. Joy was worn out at this point so we bussed back to the house for some steak beans and rice before resting through the afternoon.
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 Palacio de Cortez (GPS: N18 55.279 W099 14.016)
The Palace dates back from the colonial era, built in 1533 over a "Teocalli or Aztec Temple". It served as the summer residence of the conqueror Hernan Cortes and actually houses one of Mexico's finest museums. Among others, you can admire one of the most famous murals of Diego Rivera painted in 1929. Open: Tuesday thru Sunday from 9:00 to 17:00 hrs. This was another very nice place and the mural was exceptional. We took our time even though the afternoon was getting late and really spent the time necessary to view it. Here are some pictures from the museum and a postcard of the mural also.
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Joy shoots and scores in the Palacio de Cortez.
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Zapata
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